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Discovering the charm of Spiti
Maneesh Goal
Feb 01, 2012
First Published: 17:13 IST (04/10/2011)
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Spiti, means 'the middle country', it is the land of ragged and snow-capped mountains that reach out to the clear deep blue skies. Located along the Indo-Tibetan border, the district of Lahaul & Spiti is the largest in the North Indian State of Himachal Pradesh. It has been a forbidden land for most part of its history. The land route from Manali is barely open for three-four months a year, while the route from the Capital city of Shimla (which is open year round) takes two days to reach Spiti Valley. For most part of the year the region is covered in snow. Temperatures in winter drop to as low as minus 30 - 35 degrees Celsius and rains are minimal. Unlike Ladakh, it has no airport and suffers from little documented history. It is precisely these factors that lend the place its mysticism and make the joy of discovering its unrivalled beauty is indescribable.
Though Spiti is a cold desert terrain it is home to several perennial rivers - Spiti, Pin, Chandra - whose gurgling sounds will soothe you in the night and whose ferocity will awe you. Ah, and not to mention the placid, azure blue lakes like Chandra Taal, Nako, Dhankar. The observer would also be struck by some of the most beautiful canyons and the most unusual clay and rock formations along the river bed and in the mountains. The continuity of the landscape is only broken by numerous waterfalls and glaciers, including one of world's largest non-polar glaciers - Bara Shigri.
For the spiritual seeker, Spiti is home to some thousand year old Gompas (Buddhist Monasteries) and Tibetan art. There is also the mummy of a monk who meditated to death. It's a place which continuously resonates with the chants of Tibetan Buddhism (principal religion) and keeps you in a trance like state. The place also boasts of the world's highest motorable and inhabited villages. A place where lucky few can still find fossils in the valleys or manage to sight Snow Leopards, Ibex, Red Fox, etc. Finally, it is the beautiful people of Spiti who lend the valley its divine soul. These people, despite the harsh environment and poor living standards, are jovial and courteous. They live in match-box styled white coloured houses with lungtas fluttering from their rooftops and speak Bhoti and Hindi languages.
What do we do once we get to Spiti?
Base yourself at Kaza
Kaza (3,660 metres), administrative headquarter of Spiti. Kaza is the largest of all towns in Spiti (about 1,200 souls!) and has a bustling market place, bus-stand, petrol pump, hospital, and other facilities befitting a regional headquarter. Kaza also serves as the base for a number of mountaineers / trekkers who converge from all over the world to explore the Spiti Valley. In Kaza our home was Sakya Abode, the most popular hotel in the town (located next to the Kaza Monastery). Most travellers base themselves at Kaza and make a day trip to all the places around.
Visit Langza - Komicto experience lifestyle at average height of 4000 meters
"I was eagerly looking forward to today as I have always wondered what life is like at great mountain heights. Our destinations for today were some of the highest inhabited and motorable villages in the world - all located at an altitude of 4,200 metres and more.
Our first stop was Langza (4,200 - 4,400 metres, 148 souls), the fossil capital of India. The fossils here are scattered across the entire area. While many have now disappeared due to looting and illegal sales, the villagers assured me that a keen eye could find one even today in the various nullahs. A drive towards Langza brings up a huge statue of Gautam Buddha (built at the edge of a hillock) on the horizon with the towering ChauChau Kang Nilda peak (6,300 metres) in the backdrop. This statue and a 500 year old monastery are the principal attractions of Langza. There is also a fossil centre (Chadua) in Langza, which we unfortunately could not visit. Langza is also home to the Langza monastery which was a quaint place where we lighted lamps.
There were a few farms scattered about the village, basically wherever a flat ground could be found. These were cultivated through ingenious ways of irrigation. Dharamveer informed us that bulk of the farming is of Peas. He also told us that during the winters when temperatures dip as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius, the villagers largely prefer to stay indoors, living upon the supplies collected during the few months of summer. It's really difficult for us (city dwellers) to imagine how people live at such heights. One needs to drive almost over a mountain to reach a place which is almost a mountain itself. Sparse air, clear skies, very few people and a lifestyle which seems to be going in slow motion. But people still live here. They cultivate their farms, have their monasteries, and celebrate every occasion in life.
In these parts I have realised, under the tutelage of Dharamveer, that a simple gesture like greeting juley (a kind of namastey in local dialect), with folded hands and slight bow, can help break the ice with locals.
From here we proceeded further towards Komic (4,275 metres, 114 souls), passing Hikkim village on the way. The old KomicGompa (monastery) situated at about 4,587 metres is perhaps world's highest monastery. After offering our obeisance here, we went to the grand new monastery, which also has several rooms for the monks to stay.
Visit the grand Kye Monastery
"The Kye Monastery (4,150 metres), is the biggest monastery and Buddhist learning centre in Spiti Valley. The Kye monastery complex is a closely packed congregation of white houses built on a hillock overlooking the Spiti River. It is also known as Little Tibet. It is just 8 Kms of walk from Kaza,
Inside the monastery, a monk showed us some 800 years old Thangka paintings, murals, musical instruments and several carefully preserved manuscripts - many of which were brought centuries ago from Tibet. Once here, people should also visit the upper floor / terrace of the monastery for a 360 degrees view of the valley and lungtas strung from ornately decorated pillars.
In the prayer hall of new Gompa, four monks were engrossed in a prayer and we stood there for a few minutes observing their rituals. Their singing and music elevated us to a trance like state.
The importance of monasteries in life of people here is very different than importance of temples in our lives. A significant portion of life revolves around monasteries. Each family would probably have a monk; important matters are decided with agreement of senior lamas. Each important occasion involves blessings of senior monks. Soaking in lifestyle of monks is a different experience all together."
Visit Tabo & Dhankar Monasteries
"Tabo is a quiet village that owes its popularity to the venerable TaboChos - khor monastery, which was founded in the year 996 AD!
Since the day was still good, we decided to tour the Old Tabo monastery after relaxing for a few minutes. Set against blue skies and brown mountains, the precincts of the monastery have a magical feel. The inside of the monastery is a virtual treasure trove of millennium old murals, Thangka paintings, scriptures and sculptures. After marvelling at the work of art I realised why the Chos - khor monastery is also referred to as the 'Ajanta of the Himalayas'.
From here we proceeded towards the nearby caves (phukpas) for which we had to hike a bit from the main road. These caves are used by monks for meditation and one of them also has an elaborate mural inside.
The place is also known for a German Bakery, which serves an assortment of pastries, cookies, breads and other delectable items.
Dhankar is at height of 3,900 metres. The Dhankar monastery, a near 1,000 year old symbol of Vajrayana Buddhist architecture, is one of the 100 most endangered monuments in the world (as recognised by the World Monuments Fund)! It is constructed on a 300 metre high ledge in a rocky mountain near the confluence of Pin and Spiti rivers. An architectural marvel of its time, today owing to its age and an earthquake that struck the region in 1975, it is in the imminent danger of collapsing.
From the monastery one can see some crazy natural rock / sand formations on the left, the Dhankar village scattered in the centre, and vast expanses of the valley on the right where the clean blue waters of Pin River merge into the muddy brown waters of Spiti River. The colourful Lungtas (prayer flags), strung from the poles, and swaying in the foreground add an air of spirituality to what is one of nature's finest pieces of work. This is a view of a lifetime"
Visit Pin Valley National Park
"Pin Valley is connected to Spiti Valley by a solitary bridge (Attargu) across Pin River. Most of the valley has been declared as the Pin Valley National Park, spread over an approximate area of 675 sq. Km. It is a natural habitat for endangered species like the Snow Leopard, Himalayan Ibex, Bharal, Red Fox, Snow Cock, Lammergeier, Woolly Hare, etc. Since the terrain is mountainous, tracking these creatures is only possible by exploring the vast expanses of the valley on foot with the aid of experts. I, however, managed to spot a scrambling Red Fox, a Lammergeier in flight and a few mountain goats on our way back in the evening.
Our principal destination for the day was the ancient KungriGompa (3,520 metres). It is the main centre of Nyingmapa order of Vajrayana sect of Buddhism in Spiti and widely popular for the sword dance performances of Buzhens. "
Drive between Shimla & Kapla
"Driving on the old Hindustan - Tibet road, traversing deep canyons, ridges, and some startling rock formations with the Sutlej River flowing in all its ferocious grandeur thousands of feet below was an unnerving experience overall. A lot of gushing waterfalls closer to Kinnaur is visual treat while a number of hydel projects- Nathpa - Jhakrihydelproject, the Kharcham - Wangtooproject and the Baspa project are an eye sore. ReckongPeo is the administrative headquarters of Kinnaur district. Located at about 10 Kms from ReckongPeo is the quaint town of Kalpa (approx. 250 Kms from Shimla) where most motorists retire for the night. There are quite a few small guest houses which have amazing view of the majestic KinnerKailash (6,050 metres) peak. The peak is revered equally by Buddhists and Hindus of the land.
The 2nd day drive comprises of drive between Kapla to Nako, Nako to Kaza. On way to Nako one comes across a place called Khab which marks the confluence of Spiti River and Sutlej River. The view is simply breath-taking. The point of confluence almost looked like the moment when two Sumo wrestlers collide! At this spot the road curves in to a steel bridge, built over the point of confluence, and leads onto a road built through a small semi-circular cut in the mountain. "
Drive from Kaza to Manali (via Losar - Kunzum La - Batal - Chatru - Rohtang):
"The drive from Kaza to Rohtang Pass is perhaps one of the most picturesque in India. Since we had to traverse some 200 odd Kms in a single day, we left Kaza at about 7.00 AM. The route is notorious for unexpected stoppages due to landslides / snow-slides as well as traffic jams at the Rohtang Pass.
By 9:30 AM we were at the Losar check-post (4,079 metres). Most visitors prefer to use Losar as their base for the trek to Chandra Taal Lake, which begins from about 18 Kms from here.
In about an hour's time we were driving through the Chandra Valley and as we neared Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass), we realised that we were now completely surrounded by snow - like a boat in the middle of an ocean. At about 4,590 metres, the area around Kunzum La is the highest in the region. The Chandra River was now our companion (it goes on to meet Bhaga River near Tandi to form Chenab River) and the roads were lined with snow up to 10 feet high! From a distance we could see one of the world's five largest non-Polar glaciers, the Bara Shigri Glacier.
At the Kunzum top there is a temple, which Chortens, dedicated to Goddess Kali. We spent about 15 minutes here - photographing the spectacular mountain peaks and the Bara Shigri Glacier. This entire region is a hotbed of small and large glaciers - Bara Shigri, ChhotaShigri, Kulti, Shipting, Pacha, Chandra, Ding Karmo, Gyephang, Bolunag, Shili, Shamundri, etc.
The drive from here onward, though not steep, was very difficult. The roads, which would intermittently cross river beds, were full of small rocks and often streams of water from the melting snow would cross violently over them making it difficult for Dharamveer to navigate the vehicle over invisible rocks. Occasionally the wheel would get stuck. Other times the vehicle would simply bounce and swerve.
The drive to Rohtang Pass was a slow, winding drive upwards. A climb made difficult by the heavy fog, which had reduced visibility down to a few feet. I would have my heart in my mouth every time Dharamveer would negotiate a turn, as neither the valley nor the bend in the road were visible. Around 5.30 PM we were finally at the Rohtang Top. The place was crammed with innumerable shops that sell refreshments in the day time. A lot of tourists visit Rohtang Top to experience snow (mostly for the first time) and shamelessly leave behind a litter of plastic, a sight which I could not digest. Finally after an hour of descent we reached Manali and with it came to an end a journey which I can only describe as an odyssey."
Reaching Spiti:
There are two ways to reach Spiti;
Via Manali - this is shorter (200 Kms) as well as spectacular - there are no roads for about 37 Kms between Chatru and Gramphoo. The drive does feel like a different planet. You can drive for 20 Kms and not see a sheep. It's completely pristine with amazing number of waterfalls on one side and Chandra River flowing down on the other side. Overall it takes about 7 to 8 Hrs and goes across Rohtang as well as Kunzum la pass (4,590mts).
Via Shimla - this is a lot longer - almost 750 Kms making it a two day drive. But the good part about this side is that you see the entire spectrum of Himachal - you see touristy Shimla, a large local town in Rampur, too many Hydel power projects in stretch of 200 Kms (which are an eye sore actually); the scenic Kinnaur, awesome KinnerKailash peak (6050 mts), serenity of Nako&Tabo (where the terrain changes from green to cold desert barren brown) opening in into Mystic Spiti and then exiting via Kunzum la pass which is home to some of the largest non-polar glaciers.
Which way to take?
It depends on how much time you have and what time of year you chose to travel
The Shimla route is definitely a 10 day journey (exiting via Manali) else it becomes very rushed. The Manali route one the other hand can be done in 5 days (back to Manali)
The Manali route is open from mid Jun to early Oct; and is shut for a few days in between (depends on landslides or unpredictable rains). The Shimla route is open almost the entire year. But Jan to Mar the temperature dips to sub-zero.
Travel Tip
The best time to visit Lahaul - Spiti is during the summer months of Jun - Sep. One could start either from Shimla or Manali depending upon his convenience and / or the mood of Rohtang Pass. Since one would be living at great heights, it is advisable that he consults his physician before embarking on the journey. As one may have realised from the travelogue, having the right vehicle and the right man at the helm of affairs is perhaps the most critical aspect of travelling to Spiti. It is hence my suggestion that you contact people who are absolutely trustworthy and are experienced in providing advice in the region. While it is possible to book a cab from the Manali taxi stand, you wouldn't know beforehand about either the quality of the vehicle or the driver. I have always planned my own trips and done the bookings myself. But, as I researched about the place, I realised that this one trip had to be done differently.
Having availed of their services, I would not hesitate one bit to recommend the guys at 'Incredible Spiti' - customised travel and adventure solutions provider for the Spiti region. The success of my trip owes a great deal to Vishesh Shourie and his team's meticulous planning, good selection of vehicle and hotels and a continuous drive to ensure that we had a great time. It was also wonderful to see how they handled a last minute change in itinerary owing to the closure of Kunzum La. Without them we would have been probably stuck.
You could give them the itinerary and budget and they will design a trip around it. Alternatively you could just book the vehicle and / or hotels through them or merely ask them for trip advice!
Lastly, I would suggest that you keep your budgets flexible by at least 30 - 50% to meet contingencies like change of route, health problems, need to overstay owing to closure of roads, inclement weather, etc.
Go, attain nirvana!
Maneesh Goal, a native of Mumbai, is an ambidextrous Piscean who trades financial markets for a living. Indulges in various art forms to liven up his life! He blogs at mybioscope.blogspot.com / mybioscope.smugmug.com and can be reached atmybioscope.blog@gmail.com
Though Spiti is a cold desert terrain it is home to several perennial rivers - Spiti, Pin, Chandra - whose gurgling sounds will soothe you in the night and whose ferocity will awe you. Ah, and not to mention the placid, azure blue lakes like Chandra Taal, Nako, Dhankar. The observer would also be struck by some of the most beautiful canyons and the most unusual clay and rock formations along the river bed and in the mountains. The continuity of the landscape is only broken by numerous waterfalls and glaciers, including one of world's largest non-polar glaciers - Bara Shigri.
For the spiritual seeker, Spiti is home to some thousand year old Gompas (Buddhist Monasteries) and Tibetan art. There is also the mummy of a monk who meditated to death. It's a place which continuously resonates with the chants of Tibetan Buddhism (principal religion) and keeps you in a trance like state. The place also boasts of the world's highest motorable and inhabited villages. A place where lucky few can still find fossils in the valleys or manage to sight Snow Leopards, Ibex, Red Fox, etc. Finally, it is the beautiful people of Spiti who lend the valley its divine soul. These people, despite the harsh environment and poor living standards, are jovial and courteous. They live in match-box styled white coloured houses with lungtas fluttering from their rooftops and speak Bhoti and Hindi languages.
What do we do once we get to Spiti?
Base yourself at Kaza
Kaza (3,660 metres), administrative headquarter of Spiti. Kaza is the largest of all towns in Spiti (about 1,200 souls!) and has a bustling market place, bus-stand, petrol pump, hospital, and other facilities befitting a regional headquarter. Kaza also serves as the base for a number of mountaineers / trekkers who converge from all over the world to explore the Spiti Valley. In Kaza our home was Sakya Abode, the most popular hotel in the town (located next to the Kaza Monastery). Most travellers base themselves at Kaza and make a day trip to all the places around.
Visit Langza - Komicto experience lifestyle at average height of 4000 meters
"I was eagerly looking forward to today as I have always wondered what life is like at great mountain heights. Our destinations for today were some of the highest inhabited and motorable villages in the world - all located at an altitude of 4,200 metres and more.
Our first stop was Langza (4,200 - 4,400 metres, 148 souls), the fossil capital of India. The fossils here are scattered across the entire area. While many have now disappeared due to looting and illegal sales, the villagers assured me that a keen eye could find one even today in the various nullahs. A drive towards Langza brings up a huge statue of Gautam Buddha (built at the edge of a hillock) on the horizon with the towering ChauChau Kang Nilda peak (6,300 metres) in the backdrop. This statue and a 500 year old monastery are the principal attractions of Langza. There is also a fossil centre (Chadua) in Langza, which we unfortunately could not visit. Langza is also home to the Langza monastery which was a quaint place where we lighted lamps.
There were a few farms scattered about the village, basically wherever a flat ground could be found. These were cultivated through ingenious ways of irrigation. Dharamveer informed us that bulk of the farming is of Peas. He also told us that during the winters when temperatures dip as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius, the villagers largely prefer to stay indoors, living upon the supplies collected during the few months of summer. It's really difficult for us (city dwellers) to imagine how people live at such heights. One needs to drive almost over a mountain to reach a place which is almost a mountain itself. Sparse air, clear skies, very few people and a lifestyle which seems to be going in slow motion. But people still live here. They cultivate their farms, have their monasteries, and celebrate every occasion in life.
In these parts I have realised, under the tutelage of Dharamveer, that a simple gesture like greeting juley (a kind of namastey in local dialect), with folded hands and slight bow, can help break the ice with locals.
From here we proceeded further towards Komic (4,275 metres, 114 souls), passing Hikkim village on the way. The old KomicGompa (monastery) situated at about 4,587 metres is perhaps world's highest monastery. After offering our obeisance here, we went to the grand new monastery, which also has several rooms for the monks to stay.
Visit the grand Kye Monastery
"The Kye Monastery (4,150 metres), is the biggest monastery and Buddhist learning centre in Spiti Valley. The Kye monastery complex is a closely packed congregation of white houses built on a hillock overlooking the Spiti River. It is also known as Little Tibet. It is just 8 Kms of walk from Kaza,
Inside the monastery, a monk showed us some 800 years old Thangka paintings, murals, musical instruments and several carefully preserved manuscripts - many of which were brought centuries ago from Tibet. Once here, people should also visit the upper floor / terrace of the monastery for a 360 degrees view of the valley and lungtas strung from ornately decorated pillars.
In the prayer hall of new Gompa, four monks were engrossed in a prayer and we stood there for a few minutes observing their rituals. Their singing and music elevated us to a trance like state.
The importance of monasteries in life of people here is very different than importance of temples in our lives. A significant portion of life revolves around monasteries. Each family would probably have a monk; important matters are decided with agreement of senior lamas. Each important occasion involves blessings of senior monks. Soaking in lifestyle of monks is a different experience all together."
Visit Tabo & Dhankar Monasteries
"Tabo is a quiet village that owes its popularity to the venerable TaboChos - khor monastery, which was founded in the year 996 AD!
Since the day was still good, we decided to tour the Old Tabo monastery after relaxing for a few minutes. Set against blue skies and brown mountains, the precincts of the monastery have a magical feel. The inside of the monastery is a virtual treasure trove of millennium old murals, Thangka paintings, scriptures and sculptures. After marvelling at the work of art I realised why the Chos - khor monastery is also referred to as the 'Ajanta of the Himalayas'.
From here we proceeded towards the nearby caves (phukpas) for which we had to hike a bit from the main road. These caves are used by monks for meditation and one of them also has an elaborate mural inside.
The place is also known for a German Bakery, which serves an assortment of pastries, cookies, breads and other delectable items.
Dhankar is at height of 3,900 metres. The Dhankar monastery, a near 1,000 year old symbol of Vajrayana Buddhist architecture, is one of the 100 most endangered monuments in the world (as recognised by the World Monuments Fund)! It is constructed on a 300 metre high ledge in a rocky mountain near the confluence of Pin and Spiti rivers. An architectural marvel of its time, today owing to its age and an earthquake that struck the region in 1975, it is in the imminent danger of collapsing.
From the monastery one can see some crazy natural rock / sand formations on the left, the Dhankar village scattered in the centre, and vast expanses of the valley on the right where the clean blue waters of Pin River merge into the muddy brown waters of Spiti River. The colourful Lungtas (prayer flags), strung from the poles, and swaying in the foreground add an air of spirituality to what is one of nature's finest pieces of work. This is a view of a lifetime"
Visit Pin Valley National Park
"Pin Valley is connected to Spiti Valley by a solitary bridge (Attargu) across Pin River. Most of the valley has been declared as the Pin Valley National Park, spread over an approximate area of 675 sq. Km. It is a natural habitat for endangered species like the Snow Leopard, Himalayan Ibex, Bharal, Red Fox, Snow Cock, Lammergeier, Woolly Hare, etc. Since the terrain is mountainous, tracking these creatures is only possible by exploring the vast expanses of the valley on foot with the aid of experts. I, however, managed to spot a scrambling Red Fox, a Lammergeier in flight and a few mountain goats on our way back in the evening.
Our principal destination for the day was the ancient KungriGompa (3,520 metres). It is the main centre of Nyingmapa order of Vajrayana sect of Buddhism in Spiti and widely popular for the sword dance performances of Buzhens. "
Drive between Shimla & Kapla
"Driving on the old Hindustan - Tibet road, traversing deep canyons, ridges, and some startling rock formations with the Sutlej River flowing in all its ferocious grandeur thousands of feet below was an unnerving experience overall. A lot of gushing waterfalls closer to Kinnaur is visual treat while a number of hydel projects- Nathpa - Jhakrihydelproject, the Kharcham - Wangtooproject and the Baspa project are an eye sore. ReckongPeo is the administrative headquarters of Kinnaur district. Located at about 10 Kms from ReckongPeo is the quaint town of Kalpa (approx. 250 Kms from Shimla) where most motorists retire for the night. There are quite a few small guest houses which have amazing view of the majestic KinnerKailash (6,050 metres) peak. The peak is revered equally by Buddhists and Hindus of the land.
The 2nd day drive comprises of drive between Kapla to Nako, Nako to Kaza. On way to Nako one comes across a place called Khab which marks the confluence of Spiti River and Sutlej River. The view is simply breath-taking. The point of confluence almost looked like the moment when two Sumo wrestlers collide! At this spot the road curves in to a steel bridge, built over the point of confluence, and leads onto a road built through a small semi-circular cut in the mountain. "
Drive from Kaza to Manali (via Losar - Kunzum La - Batal - Chatru - Rohtang):
"The drive from Kaza to Rohtang Pass is perhaps one of the most picturesque in India. Since we had to traverse some 200 odd Kms in a single day, we left Kaza at about 7.00 AM. The route is notorious for unexpected stoppages due to landslides / snow-slides as well as traffic jams at the Rohtang Pass.
By 9:30 AM we were at the Losar check-post (4,079 metres). Most visitors prefer to use Losar as their base for the trek to Chandra Taal Lake, which begins from about 18 Kms from here.
In about an hour's time we were driving through the Chandra Valley and as we neared Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass), we realised that we were now completely surrounded by snow - like a boat in the middle of an ocean. At about 4,590 metres, the area around Kunzum La is the highest in the region. The Chandra River was now our companion (it goes on to meet Bhaga River near Tandi to form Chenab River) and the roads were lined with snow up to 10 feet high! From a distance we could see one of the world's five largest non-Polar glaciers, the Bara Shigri Glacier.
At the Kunzum top there is a temple, which Chortens, dedicated to Goddess Kali. We spent about 15 minutes here - photographing the spectacular mountain peaks and the Bara Shigri Glacier. This entire region is a hotbed of small and large glaciers - Bara Shigri, ChhotaShigri, Kulti, Shipting, Pacha, Chandra, Ding Karmo, Gyephang, Bolunag, Shili, Shamundri, etc.
The drive from here onward, though not steep, was very difficult. The roads, which would intermittently cross river beds, were full of small rocks and often streams of water from the melting snow would cross violently over them making it difficult for Dharamveer to navigate the vehicle over invisible rocks. Occasionally the wheel would get stuck. Other times the vehicle would simply bounce and swerve.
The drive to Rohtang Pass was a slow, winding drive upwards. A climb made difficult by the heavy fog, which had reduced visibility down to a few feet. I would have my heart in my mouth every time Dharamveer would negotiate a turn, as neither the valley nor the bend in the road were visible. Around 5.30 PM we were finally at the Rohtang Top. The place was crammed with innumerable shops that sell refreshments in the day time. A lot of tourists visit Rohtang Top to experience snow (mostly for the first time) and shamelessly leave behind a litter of plastic, a sight which I could not digest. Finally after an hour of descent we reached Manali and with it came to an end a journey which I can only describe as an odyssey."
Reaching Spiti:
There are two ways to reach Spiti;
Via Manali - this is shorter (200 Kms) as well as spectacular - there are no roads for about 37 Kms between Chatru and Gramphoo. The drive does feel like a different planet. You can drive for 20 Kms and not see a sheep. It's completely pristine with amazing number of waterfalls on one side and Chandra River flowing down on the other side. Overall it takes about 7 to 8 Hrs and goes across Rohtang as well as Kunzum la pass (4,590mts).
Via Shimla - this is a lot longer - almost 750 Kms making it a two day drive. But the good part about this side is that you see the entire spectrum of Himachal - you see touristy Shimla, a large local town in Rampur, too many Hydel power projects in stretch of 200 Kms (which are an eye sore actually); the scenic Kinnaur, awesome KinnerKailash peak (6050 mts), serenity of Nako&Tabo (where the terrain changes from green to cold desert barren brown) opening in into Mystic Spiti and then exiting via Kunzum la pass which is home to some of the largest non-polar glaciers.
Which way to take?
It depends on how much time you have and what time of year you chose to travel
The Shimla route is definitely a 10 day journey (exiting via Manali) else it becomes very rushed. The Manali route one the other hand can be done in 5 days (back to Manali)
The Manali route is open from mid Jun to early Oct; and is shut for a few days in between (depends on landslides or unpredictable rains). The Shimla route is open almost the entire year. But Jan to Mar the temperature dips to sub-zero.
Travel Tip
The best time to visit Lahaul - Spiti is during the summer months of Jun - Sep. One could start either from Shimla or Manali depending upon his convenience and / or the mood of Rohtang Pass. Since one would be living at great heights, it is advisable that he consults his physician before embarking on the journey. As one may have realised from the travelogue, having the right vehicle and the right man at the helm of affairs is perhaps the most critical aspect of travelling to Spiti. It is hence my suggestion that you contact people who are absolutely trustworthy and are experienced in providing advice in the region. While it is possible to book a cab from the Manali taxi stand, you wouldn't know beforehand about either the quality of the vehicle or the driver. I have always planned my own trips and done the bookings myself. But, as I researched about the place, I realised that this one trip had to be done differently.
Having availed of their services, I would not hesitate one bit to recommend the guys at 'Incredible Spiti' - customised travel and adventure solutions provider for the Spiti region. The success of my trip owes a great deal to Vishesh Shourie and his team's meticulous planning, good selection of vehicle and hotels and a continuous drive to ensure that we had a great time. It was also wonderful to see how they handled a last minute change in itinerary owing to the closure of Kunzum La. Without them we would have been probably stuck.
You could give them the itinerary and budget and they will design a trip around it. Alternatively you could just book the vehicle and / or hotels through them or merely ask them for trip advice!
Lastly, I would suggest that you keep your budgets flexible by at least 30 - 50% to meet contingencies like change of route, health problems, need to overstay owing to closure of roads, inclement weather, etc.
Go, attain nirvana!
Maneesh Goal, a native of Mumbai, is an ambidextrous Piscean who trades financial markets for a living. Indulges in various art forms to liven up his life! He blogs at mybioscope.blogspot.com / mybioscope.smugmug.com and can be reached atmybioscope.blog@gmail.com
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